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FREE FLAT OR NEWSBOY CAP PATTERN AND TUTORIAL



It comes with many names- flat, golf, skully, bunnet, newsboy cap or cabbie. They have been part of popular culture for a long time and has moved in and out of fashion on a regular basis. Usually associated with the working class, they are now the ‘tough guy’ look of Jason Statham and Sly Stallone.

The pattern which is HERE and HERE (You will need both).

Instructions to make the cap are here (printable) along with all the following images. You can choose just to print out the first pages with instructions or the whole document with images too. Feel free to share this pattern. Please don't sell the pattern but you are more than welcome to use the pattern to create caps to sell. 

Flat, Golf or Skully Cap.
Tutorial by urbandon menswear

You will need some sturdy fabric like denim or for a classic look, some tweed wool. I used boiled wool in the photos. It is good fabric to use as it does not fray and there is no need to overlock the edges. If you are using a fabric that frays them overlock or zig-zag all edges before you start assembling the cap.


One of the great things about sewing hats is they use up so little fabric. Off cuts or cut up jeans make for great materials to use. You will need around a ¼ of a meter or yard.


This pattern will make a cap for a standard size male head 22-22 1/5 (56-57cm).

If you are a little larger try some stretch fabric or a trial fabric first. You can also cut both the mail pieces (the crown and sides) and move them slightly away from each other- as in, stretching the pattern pieces. Remember if you want to make the cap  1 inch (2.5cm) bigger then only stretch them half that distance away. 

NOTES


  • Seam allowances included in patterns (9mm or ⅝ th -standard home sewing allowance)

  • Lay patterns face up on fabric

  • Fold your fabric double with right sides facing selvage edges together.


MATERIALS
  • sturdy cotton or wool fabric of choice.

  • The pattern which is HERE and HERE (You will need both)

  • Lining- not essential but a nice touch.


  • The pattern pieces.
  • Hat making Petersham. You can get away with 1 inch twill tape.
  • Pins, and tailors chalk or chalk wheel.
  • Sewing machine and matching thread.


INSTRUCTIONS
  • Print out patterns at 100%. They should be A4/ Letter size.
  • Cut out printed patterns. Transfer patterns to stiff card if you prefer.
  • Lay patterns on fabric, mark and cut out. Note that two of the pieces are laid out on the fold of the fabric. (figure a)
  • You should have the crown, one side piece and two visor sections. (figure b)


  • Cut out the inside head band section (no pattern) with these dimensions: 22 inches x 1 ½ inches (56cm x 3.5cm)


  • Pin crown and side panels together all the way around, matching center fronts , joining the two pieces. (figure d)
  • Stitch pieces together. This can be tricky as you are sowing two opposing curves together. Gently tug the pieces to stay aligned. (figure e)


  • Press seam towards crown piece from the inside.


  • Turn cap right side out and topstitch seam flat. This creates a clean and neat look. (figure i & j)
  • Turn hat inside out again and stitch rear seam. (figure k) Start at the base of the hat and reduce width of seam as you approach the top of the seam. (figure l)


  • Press seam outward. Top stitch the rear seam flat. (figure m & n)
  • If you are lining the cap, cut out the two cap sections from a lining fabric. Place lining inside cap, wrong sides together, and join cap and lining together, very closely around the edge.
  • Stitch visor pieces wrong sides together.(figure f) Notch the seam allowance to make a neater, and less bulky edge. (figure g)
  • Turn the visor right side out and press seam. (figure h)
  • Cut out stiff interfacing or lightweight plastic (like an ice cream container lid) (figure o) and insert into visor. Stitch through visor, securing the interfacing. (figure q)
  • Match the center of the visor and the center front of cap. Stitch, joining the visor to the cap right sides together. (figure s)
  • Press the Petersham into a slight curve. Do the same with the inside band.
  • Attach Petersham to inside band close to the shorter edge by stitching close to each edge. (figure u)
  • Join the ends together, forming a loop. (figure v)
  • Pin cap and inside band together making sure the longer of the sides is joining the cap. The curve and angle of the inside band reflect the angle of the cap and insures a smooth inside band.  Sew right sides together, matching back seams together, sandwiching the visor. (figure w)
  • Turn inside band into the inside of the cap. Press and topstitch all the way round, creating a neat and secure inside band. (figure x)
  • Secure the cap and the visor together with a couple of stitches close to the edge of the visor and cap. (figure zb)
  • Press the whole cap again. A pressing ham will come in handy for this.
  • That's it. You're done.