Combat Cap Instructions by Urbandon Menswear
The following instructions are here in printable document with images. The pattern is here and here. (you will need both)
Easy to sew combat cap. Simple and basic go-anywhere cap.
You will need some sturdy fabric like denim, cotton drill or wool. If you are using a fabric that frays then overlock or zigzag all edges before you start assembling the cap.
One of the great things about sewing hats is they use up so little fabric. Off cuts or cut up jeans make for great materials to use. You will need around 20x 25 inches of fabric.
The following instructions are for an unlined cap. It is designed for a standard men's head of 22 1/2 inches (57cm)*
Please feel free to share this pattern but please don't sell it. If you use it then let me know- I love to hear feedback on ways to improve the pattern.**
*Despite being in Australia and designing menswear to European standard sizes and using metric all the time most of my followers (and buyers) are from the USA. Because of this I use metric and imperial measurements in these patterns.
**I can only be of limited assistance due to this being a free pattern and I cannot be responsible for any injury, errors or fashion faux-pas that may arise from using this pattern.
• sturdy cotton or wool fabric of choice.
• Heavy-weight interfacing.
• The pattern pieces.
• Hat making Petersham. You can get away with 1 inch twill tape.
• Pins and tailors chalk or chalk wheel.
• Sewing machine and matching thread.
• Print out patterns at 100%. They should be A4/ Letter size.
• Check the test square- it should be 2 inches (5.8 cm square)
• Cut out printed patterns. Transfer patterns to stiff card if you prefer.
• Lay out patterns on fabric, mark and cut out. (a)
• You should have the top, a crown piece, inside band and two visor sections. (b)
• Cut out interfacing or stiff plastic like an ice cream container or plastic office folder. (c)
• Stitch the two visor pieces right sides together. (d)
• Trim and notch within seam allowance to stop a bulky seam. (e) Turn visor right way out. Press.
• Insert heavy weight interfacing into visor. Press if it is heat bonding otherwise pin in place. (f)
• Stitch around the rim of visor and several more times. Follow the line of the visor. (g) Press.
• Overlock or zigzag along one long side of the inside band.(it is the narrower of the two long strips) (h)
• Pin the milliners Petersham (or 1 inch twill tape) down the centre of the inside band. Stitch in place with two rows of stitching- one at the top and the other at the bottom. (h)
• Join the shorter sides of the inside bands right sides together. The side with the Petersham is the right side. Press the seam open. (i)
• Join the shorter sides of the crown piece. Press the seam open. (i)
• Mark the centre of the visor and the middle of both the inside band and crown. (j)
• Pin the visor to the inside band matching centre front marks right sides together. Remember the inside of the band is the right side. Also, to top of the inside band is the one that is over-locked- you will be joining the other side of the band. The right side of the visor is usually the top you sewed (the stitches look neater)
• Sew the visor to the inside band. (k)
• Pin the crown to the inside band right sides together matching centre front and back seams. The visor will be sandwiched between the two layers. Sew through all layers. A little bit of tugging will keep the pieces aligned. (l)
• Press. (o) First press the seam allowance to towards the crown then turn right side out and press seam flat. (p)
• Edge stitch around bottom edge of cap securing the seam. This is not essential and may be skipped.
• Turn cap inside out.
• Mark centre front, centre back and side marks on both the crown and top pieces. (q)
• Pin aligning marks- right sides together. (r)
• Carefully stitch crown to top piece around the diameter of the top. Keep the pieces aligned.
• Press seam allowance towards crown.
• Turn cap right side out and pin seam allowance. (s) Again, this step is optional. It does give a finished look- only if you do it accurately. (ask me how I know!)
• Carefully stitch around the top of the cap (from the outside) (t) securing the seam allowance to the crown.
• Give a final press to the whole cap. Pinch where the crown and top join and press- this will give a sharp 90 degree angle around the top of the cap.